Eugene does a Rocky!
Philadelphia here I come! That was my catchphrase as I set off to America’s fifth largest city.
Like many Irish holidaymakers I’ve used direct flights from this country to Philadelphia airport as a hub to get somewhere else in the States and used to think it was an industrialised city with little attraction.
But boy was I wrong!
Having visited most of the big cities in the US I can testify that Philly is one of the most vibrant, exciting and historic cities I’ve been to.
It is also becoming a shopping destination for Irish folk keen to fill their suitcases with ware from the likes of Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s.
Philly has an advantage over nearby New York (which is about a two-hour drive away) as while it boasts the same types of stores and lots of swish restaurants and bars, its hotels are less than half the price of those in the Big Apple.
The city is the fifth biggest in America, home to over 1.5 million people.
For the discerning tourist there are two must-see attractions to this bustling metropolis – Independence National Historic Park and the Philadelphia Museum of Art.
The park features the most historic square mile in America, as it is |the location of Independence Hall, where the Declaration of Independence was signed on July 4, 1776.
It is quite amazing to visit this quaint building and find inside the intact room with 13 desks where representatives of the original colonies sat during the country’s formative days, including the likes of George Washington and Benjamin Franklin.
Near Independence Hall (which was originally the Pennsylvania State House, built in 1753) is the Liberty Bell Center.
This building houses perhaps the most potent symbol of American freedom, although ironically is appears to be an embellishment of sorts.
The bell was first made in 1752 in London and on its arrival to Philadelphia it cracked on its first ringing. It’s since emerged that it did not toll on July 4 1776, but was one of several which did a |couple of days later.
It was only in 1847 that it became part of American folklore when it was erroneously written about in a popular comic book as being the bell which rang out the call of freedom on July 4. It attracted millions of sightseers when it toured the country but since 1976 it is housed in the Liberty Bell Center, which attracts huge lines of visitors.
Also in this square mile is the National Constitution Center, a giant museum dedicated to the document first created in Independence Hall in 1787 with its famous opening line ‘We the people...’
But while the purpose-built dedication building has an impressive interactive display |of everything to do with the constitution, it’s a bit of a letdown to find the original document is now housed in the National Archives in Washington (which took |over from Philadelphia |as the federal capital in 1800).
The Philadelphia Museum of Art is renowned for having one of the biggest collections of art work in America (over a quarter of a million pieces) |but it also claims huge stature in movie history.
Its steps are the ones Sylvester Stallone memorably ran up during Rocky back in 1976 – visitors will see countless people re-enact the inspirational trek.
At the base of the steps is a Rocky statue, which is besieged by tourists snatching a photograph.
But the museum itself is well worth a visit, home to an astonishing array of work by the likes of Monet, Van Gogh, Picasso and Renoir, but strangely, despite the huge collection, I could only find one Rembrandt.
The Barnes Foundation is another art facility worth checking out.
Originally established by Albert Barnes in 1922, it was moved to a new building in its current location with strict instructions that the paintings be left in the same positions.
But while they’re quite mind-blowing (with an enormous number of Renoirs), it’s a bit of a pity that most of them are stacked on top of each other on the same wall, several times over, deflecting from their individuality.
The Eastern State Penitentiary is another venue worth popping into. It was once the most famous and expensive prison in the world and its Victorian cells – home to Al Capone for a while, amongst others – are still intact despite it no longer being a functioning prison.
The best way to get around the city is on the Philadelphia Big Bus, a double decker which takes an hour and a half for the tour in its entirety and includes stop-offs at the zoo and Delaware riverside.
The city may be the home of the Philadelphia Cheesesteak but it boasts an eclectic array of thriving restaurants, including the American-style Red Owl Tavern, the Asian-oriented Buddakan and rustic High Street on the Market.
McGillin’s Olde Ale House is the oldest tavern (1860) in Philadelphia and its Mullins owners trace their roots back to Co Mayo – nip in for a craft beer and some tasty nibbles.
The downtown area has a vast number of hotels but one nice one to consider is the Sheraton on Society Hill, which is within walking distance of much of the nightlife and tourist attractions.
Having crossed the Atlantic dozens of times since 1991, it has taken me nearly a quarter of a century to visit America’s most historic city.
Philadelphia – the home of Rocky – will definitely be high on the list for a return visit as it’s a knockout!
